Born in Poland, but raised in England, Barbara Hulanicki began her fashion career in the 1960’s working as a freelance fashion writer. In 1964, encouraged by her late husband Stephen Fitz-Simon, Hulanicki founded the fashion boutique BIBA, eventually expanding into a label beloved by rock stars and celebrities such as Twiggy and Bianca Jagger. Having epitomised the Swinging London of Carnaby Street, she moved to Miami and reinvented herself as an interior designer in 1987, and has recently created wallpapers for Habitat and Graham and Brown, from £60 per 10m roll.
Why did you first start designing wallpaper?
I’ve always had an interest in it, and Habitat asked me if I would design some papers for them five or six years ago, so I did. When I was at BIBA, everybody just did their own thing and only really oversaw their own part of the process, so I thought I would just create little squares of wallpaper and that would be it – of course, there turned out to be more to it. Actually, it wasn’t that difficult, as these wonderful companies have clever design teams who do the tricky bits like adding in the repeats for you.
And how come you’ve started using flock in your latest collection? What with Heal’s flocking everything from desks to phones, and Tom Dixon making flock pendant lights, it seems to be the material of the moment right now.
Really? I didn’t know Tom Dixon had done that, how funny! I just thought flock seemed like such an old fashioned material, and I always like to go back in time a bit with my designs. I also think that, generally, people are starting to really like soft things now, too.
How does wallpaper designing differ from fashion designing?
It’s a lot quicker. With wallpaper, you see immediate results, whereas in fashion you have to wait for people to make the samples, it can take ages. Also, with clothes, you have to learn to let go a little bit more, and let others carry on the project – I’m not very good at that. I like to continue, to see something through to the end, which Graham and Brown have really let me do.
Who do you design your wallpaper for?
When I’m designing I usually think about old houses that are being revamped. In Miami, where I live now, there are lots of big square blocks with no character, and wallpaper is an easy way to add a bit of life and style. People just don’t seem to get it over here like they do in Britain, I think it’s a real cold climate thing. After all, the Brits have been using it to cover cracks in their crumbling old piles for years!
Where do you get your inspiration?
Because I work for other people all the time as an interior designer I’m gathering info from all sorts of sources constantly, just from meeting new people and going to new places. I kept seeing skull motifs on clothes and it just felt right – then at the Art Basel Fair in Miami a bicycle company asked me to customise a bike for them and I used a skull design. It ended up being bought by the photographer David LaChappelle – I really hope to see it in one of his celebrity portraits one day! After that, I thought they were a must for the wallpaper, and Graham and Brown were actually really open to the idea, even though I’ll admit it’s a bit controversial.
Obviously BIBA was such a phenomenon, and is still referenced all the time. Are you amazed at the legacy you’ve created?
Absolutely! People look back fondly at BIBA, but at the time, everyone was so rude and snobby about it, and would complain about the buttons falling off, so I’m surprised at the affection there seems to be for the label now. I loved how rebellious we were, we got so much disapproval from the public. It’s always fun doing things that puts noses out of joint!
How come you decided to leave the UK?
After some financial struggles I had to sell BIBA, and then needed a break, so went on an extended trip to Brazil. It was incredible, after years in a little BIBA bubble I discovered there was a whole world out there, and I got asked to do a project with Ronnie Wood – it was a hotel and dancehall in Miami. It was only meant to take six months, but it dragged on and on, and after two years here I’d fallen in love with the weather.
What have you got lined up next?
I’ve just done a range of canvases for Graham and Brown, and I have another project for them on the go, too. Sorry, it’s a secret!
And finally, how would you sum up your own style?
Eclectic, as long as it’s black. Oh, and shoes, shoes, shoes!
Posted in: Home news, Homes, Wallpaper.
Tags: Barbara Hulanicki, Wallpaper.
